Gold - An Indian Tradition
Throughout the ages, Gold has played an important part in the heritage and culture of India. For practical, social and aesthetic reasons, this precious metal has been traded and worked throughout thousands of years. Today, Indian jewelry making is, without question, the finest in the world. It has become an art form, combining jewels with precious metals to achieve pieces both unique and traditional. While throughout history, India has been recognized as the source of riches, jewels, and gold, today’s world has largely forgotten the magnificent creations in a world of mass-production and franchise jewelery outlets.
Indian Jewellery Throughout the Ages
The earliest records of adornment using jewelry made from precious metals goes back to the civilizations of Mohenjodaro and Harappa. India produced jewellry which was ornately carved, embellished and polished. In ancient India, large herds of cows, stables of horses, elephants and jewellry were considered the only valuable treasures worth having. One’s status in society was guaged by how costly one’s jewelry was and how much of it you wore on festive occasions.
The Indus Valley Civilisation
Head ornaments, necklaces, armlets, wristlets and bangles were everywhere. Artisans were particularly skilled at gilding copper with gold – an early form of enameling. Pieces from this period include a famous necklace of 240 round gold beads and another necklace with 13 pendants – each pendant being composed of golden beads strung together with copper wire.
Graeco-Roman jewelry at Takshita
The conquest of India by Alexander the Great brought the Greek influence into the form of the jewelry at this time. It had a distinctly Greek or Graeco-Roman style and form. Famous pieces from this time include a gold coin of Queen Faustina’s head as a pendant placed between two gold beads in the form of tortoises. Amulets with carved motifs were popular. The beginning of the kundan jewelry mad popular by the Mughals can be traced to this era.
The Mauryas
This was a prosperous era and it is evidenced by the ornate jewelry worn. Silver, gold, pearls, carnelian, lapis lazuli and precious stones were the height of fashion.
South Indian Jewelry
Even in the time before Christ, artisans were highly proficient in the South of India. Trade with Rome brought an influx of Roman coins which were often made into necklaces and bracelets. Again, motifs were in fashion – most popular were fish, dragons, lions, dancers and horses. There are several famous jewelry designs which originate in this period: Necklaces of gold coins or jewels combined with pearls, earrings in the shape of lotus flowers or palm leaves, wide belts made from gold chains, bead chains made of combinations of gold, pearls and other beads, and golden anklets with bells that jingled.
Gupta period
The Gupta period was the point when the art of gems and jewellry making was at its peak. Jewelry was imperative to indicate one’s social status. Jewelry was worn all over the body. Kings wore ornate crown and women wore replicas of flowers made of precious stones. Also in fashion were maharika, a crocodile shaped jewel worn at the parting of the hair.
Paliava and Chola periods
Gold, pearls, earrings (gold studded with jewels), gold and jeweled belts, armlets, and leg ornaments were the fashion statements of this time. Famous finds from this era include earrings resembling a bunch of grapes and earrings made of a geometrical pattern of gemstones. Bangle bracelets and wristlets from this period are also common.
Chandella period
Ear ornaments now took the form of hoops studded with pearls and precious stones. Also popular was karnaphula, a flower or star-shaped earring, sometimes with a bud-shaped drop.
Kakatiya period
This period focused on gold. Famous finds include golden hair accessories, ornaments to be worn at the back of the head which were jewel and pearl encrusted, jeweled veils which nearly covered the face, and necklaces made of numerous strands of gold studded with gems.
Vijayanagar period
Famous finds from this period are pendants to be worn on the forehead and back of the head and gold ornaments to be worn on the plaited hair of the women.
